Stumper repairs required

Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:09 am

That Jim is exattly the same as a forge the forced air creates a lot of very high heat then you add all them fool wires and you really got a problem BBQ was never ment to be done with electrcity period. Razz

Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 8:23 pm

Well I got at it today. Went through a few cutting wheels but got the pit opened up and had a look.

To the left and right of where the text is (the repair site) is where the metal has failed.

Here is a view from the inside.

This area that is affected is only about 3" high and I am thinking I just may be able to replace the affected areas. I am thinking 1/4" or 3/8" x 3" flat bar. Weld into place, and that could be tricky, and then maybe use refractory cement around the whole ash pan and burning area at the bottom of the chute. I may have to cut out the ash box and replace it as well. It is also made of lighter material and I think now would be the time to install a 1/4" thick box.

Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 8:41 pm

Jim could you not cut that whole section out and replace it I think thats what I would do but from here its hard to tell you could cut the squar tubing out to get at it and replace it after just my thoughts. Rolling Eyes

Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 8:49 pm

That's pretty much what I was planning on doing Barry. I may have to get a torch for some of the cutting though. I am still toying with the idea of taking the whole end off the pit and removing the whole chute and making the modification and then reinstalling. It is a lot of work, BUT I only want to do it once.

Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 9:54 pm

Jim if I were you I would be looking into finding some beams like Jay used. When you consider your smoker situation' that's a big smoker and it takes a really hot fire to heat it. That's hard on the steel box; ya know?

I've got to tell you though, seeing your burn out makes me a little nervous firing mine up real hot. I'd say I'm certainly don't burning off the dirt inside and might not make pizzas as much. Do you have any idea how thick the steel is in that area in the real Stump's?

Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 10:28 pm

I think you could just take the bottom end off the chute and build a new one of 3/8 material and reinstal it farily easely with a lot less work and cost. Or you could line it with fire brick and that would do the trick put a door in so as you could replace them if need be. Idea

Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 11:24 pm

I like the big door idea Barry, that would make access to this potential problem area a lot easier and make regular inspections easier as well. I will be taking out the whole bottom end of the fire box and making a new one out of much heavier material.

Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 8:06 am

Jim, I'm with Barry on the cause and the fix, same big door thingy. You are going at it the best way. Heavy material down there helps with heat dissipation.
When we build the first unit we are all anxious to get it up and running, when I built mine there was no exception. On the second cooker, I built the fire door larger to cover the fire grate. The grate had a door side plate to prevent airflow around the grate. When the fire door was open you can see directly into the cooking chamber and the fuel chute bottom weld is at the top of the chamber. Good luck with the fix. Glad to be of any help.
Have you thought about making a removable hot section?

Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 10:43 am

Tom that is a really good idea and would not be that hard to do then very easy to do and more fixen.
Boy the smarts on this fourm are scarey at times Rolling Eyes

Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 11:15 am

Barry wrote:

Tom that is a really good idea and would not be that hard to do then very easy to do and more fixen.
Boy the smarts on this fourm are scarey at times Rolling Eyes

You know it Barry. Wink

Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 3:50 pm

I like Barry's Idea as well, cut out part of you shut 6 to 8 inches then rebuild for there down.

All the ideas are good and will work it is just the amount of work that must be added into the equation.

Jim if you end up going with sometype of cement try this mixture.
http://www.crest.org/discussiongroups/resources/stoves/Still/VC%20Stove/vcstove.html

I still wonder if that is why the real Stumps cookers went with a removeable fire box???

Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 4:19 pm

You are very likley right Q can you imange the number of upset people that have this problem out there Rolling Eyes

Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 10:47 pm

Hey Barry, I am going to busy tomorrow with other stuff (got to give my son a hand), but intend on working on the repair job on Friday. So give me a call if you can make it on Friday and we will hook up.

Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 11:35 pm

Friday I have to go into our daughters in Birds Hill to paint there basement. At least supervise and they allways send me to pick up lunch but never send any money Crying or Very sad

Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 5:31 pm

Well I got more done today. I cut out the 1" square tubing frame work I had in there and got to ripping and tearing the ash box out. Between cutting wheels on the angle grinder and metal blades in the reciprocating saw, I got most of it cut out today. I sure am glad I built this and not Stumps, why, because if this happens to anyone with a bought unit, they won't have a clue where to start. Hopefully this isn't happening out there, but I would sure be careful with the forced air to the firebox. It could happen.
Here is the framework removed:

Freeing up the bottom of the ash box.

Just a couple more pieces to cut out before starting to fabricate the new firebox and ashbox.

I have had enough of this foul tasting and smelling grinding dust. Time to sit down and relax. Just about supper time.