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GOATTER
BBQ Nut
Joined: 06 Jul 2012
Posts: 150
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Location: Sandy, UT
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Posted:
Sat Jul 14, 2012 9:07 pm |
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I have a couple of 4" sch. 40 weld 90. Do you think this will be a big enough flue. My cook chamber will be 24" deep X 30" wide X 60" tall (43200 Cu. inches). The tranfer tube inside dimention is 3" X 7" (21 sq inches). 4" pipe should have a dimention of 12.56". I plan on using a 2" B-valve on the door. This would have 3.14 sq inches of air. |
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GOATTER
BBQ Nut
Joined: 06 Jul 2012
Posts: 150
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Location: Sandy, UT
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Posted:
Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:49 am |
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Here is the progress so far. The drain pan that is installed is 14 gauge. This is not the actual drain, but a cover for the insulation. I welded it so that the bugs would not get into the insulation. The actual pan will be 8 gauge. I also reconfigured the drain from the previous mock up.
I'm still waiting on input for the flue if anyone can help. |
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smokinJim
Site Admin

Joined: 13 Jun 2005
Posts: 7791
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Location: Seven Sisters Falls, MB.
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Posted:
Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:50 pm |
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| GOATTER wrote: |
| I have a couple of 4" sch. 40 weld 90. Do you think this will be a big enough flue. My cook chamber will be 24" deep X 30" wide X 60" tall (43200 Cu. inches). The tranfer tube inside dimention is 3" X 7" (21 sq inches). 4" pipe should have a dimention of 12.56". I plan on using a 2" B-valve on the door. This would have 3.14 sq inches of air. |
"Flue", are you meaning the chimney? If so, 2 - 4"dia will be more than enough. |
_________________ Jim B.
Cooking on:
WSM 18" & 22"
2 Weber grills
BDS clone
Large gravity fed offset in progress
Vermont Castings 5007 grill.
KCBS CBJ #53898
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GOATTER
BBQ Nut
Joined: 06 Jul 2012
Posts: 150
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Location: Sandy, UT
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Posted:
Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:11 pm |
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Thanks Jim that is the answer that I was looking for. |
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GOATTER
BBQ Nut
Joined: 06 Jul 2012
Posts: 150
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Location: Sandy, UT
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Posted:
Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:14 pm |
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Here is wee I'm at tonight. I finished welding the drain pan too. Unfortunately the grinder ate my knuckle before I could snap a picture. I welded the 1" steel coupling to the lower pan before insulating and fitting up the drain pan.
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smokinJim
Site Admin

Joined: 13 Jun 2005
Posts: 7791
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Location: Seven Sisters Falls, MB.
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Posted:
Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:28 pm |
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Looking good so far. |
_________________ Jim B.
Cooking on:
WSM 18" & 22"
2 Weber grills
BDS clone
Large gravity fed offset in progress
Vermont Castings 5007 grill.
KCBS CBJ #53898
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GOATTER
BBQ Nut
Joined: 06 Jul 2012
Posts: 150
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Location: Sandy, UT
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Posted:
Sat Jul 21, 2012 6:42 pm |
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It seems like the project is gaining momentum. I turned the frame upside down for some welding and fit up. While there I did a little rattle can painting.
I insulated under the ashbox before welding it to the frame.
I decided to pipe an offset from the stoker to the ashbox. I used 2" sch. 80 pipe and fittings. For the stoker attachment I welded half of an 1 1/2" forged steel coupling to the end of the 2" pipe. I was worried about flow restrictions by piping it in 1 1/2". Here is the difference in the pipe sizes. There is an 1 1/2" nipple slid into the 2" pipe.
Here's the offset before being welded into place.
Here's the final results
Here's some pics of the Charcoal hopper welded to the fire box. I also welded the firebox to the frame today.
Last of all before calling it a day I was able to fit up and partially weld one inner wall.
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smokinJim
Site Admin

Joined: 13 Jun 2005
Posts: 7791
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Location: Seven Sisters Falls, MB.
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Posted:
Sat Jul 21, 2012 11:13 pm |
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Getting it together real nice. |
_________________ Jim B.
Cooking on:
WSM 18" & 22"
2 Weber grills
BDS clone
Large gravity fed offset in progress
Vermont Castings 5007 grill.
KCBS CBJ #53898
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scootr14
BBQ Nut
Joined: 24 Jun 2010
Posts: 191
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Location: Sweetwater, Texas
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Posted:
Mon Jul 23, 2012 11:37 am |
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Looks great, I think you'll enjoy having the stoker offset like that. Less chance of someone running into it, and it keeps it out of the elements. |
_________________ Bubba Keg
Stubby (Stump Clone)
Offset stick burner
Trailer mounted offset
Gasser (unused for 2 yrs) |
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GOATTER
BBQ Nut
Joined: 06 Jul 2012
Posts: 150
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Location: Sandy, UT
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Posted:
Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:13 pm |
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I now have a cook chamber. It appears to be moving now. I welded 4 -5/8" bolts to the drain pan. This is to ease in cleaning and to secure the heat shield.
Here is the heat shield. I made this out of some 14 gauge scrap pieces laying around and 3/4" sch. 40 pipe.
I also built the grease diverter. I had originally planned to put it the opposite direction than what is pictured, but it looked like it would work better this way. I have not installed this piece, but I set it here as a reference.
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smokinJim
Site Admin

Joined: 13 Jun 2005
Posts: 7791
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Location: Seven Sisters Falls, MB.
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Posted:
Wed Jul 25, 2012 7:38 pm |
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Is that grease diverter going to be fastened to the heat shield? Good idea to do that as the air space between the 2 layers will help to prevent grease fires from starting on the shield. |
_________________ Jim B.
Cooking on:
WSM 18" & 22"
2 Weber grills
BDS clone
Large gravity fed offset in progress
Vermont Castings 5007 grill.
KCBS CBJ #53898
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GOATTER
BBQ Nut
Joined: 06 Jul 2012
Posts: 150
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Location: Sandy, UT
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Posted:
Wed Jul 25, 2012 7:45 pm |
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Yes Jim as of now I plan on fastening it like I did the Heat shield. This way it will be easy to take apart and clean. I have some 5/8" round stock and some 3/4" sch 40 pipe. |
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jtburf
Newbie
Joined: 26 Feb 2012
Posts: 23
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Location: Houston Texas
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Posted:
Thu Jul 26, 2012 6:01 am |
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GOATTER
Is the gooseneck for your fan hookup?
So it stays out of the weather?
Looking good.
John |
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GOATTER
BBQ Nut
Joined: 06 Jul 2012
Posts: 150
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Location: Sandy, UT
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Posted:
Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:20 am |
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Yes JT The piping offset that you are describing is for the fan. I like this location for a couple of reasons, to get it out of the weather. and to hide the stoker. |
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GOATTER
BBQ Nut
Joined: 06 Jul 2012
Posts: 150
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Location: Sandy, UT
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Posted:
Thu Jul 26, 2012 10:29 am |
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I pulled a muscle in my neck last night while driving of all things. So today I'm dreaming of smoke but not working too hard. I'm playing with the idea of hiding the wiring for the stoker unit. My thoughts are to come out of the side wall into the dead space in the fire chamber. from here back underneath. I'll direct this routing with piping. I'm not sure what size pipe to run until I get the stoker unit from Rock's. The size will depend on what the probes will fit through.
The orange dot taped to the side wall on the left side shows were I'm thinking of coming through.
The dot on the lower left shows were the conduit will be entering the underneath area. Don't worry about the material. I plan on usng sch 40 Black pipe.
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