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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 4:42 pm Post subject: LEDs / lightings (warning : pix inside, slow loading) |
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Not a blog, also not to spoil ArieLCandy's thread so continue here and consolidate.
I think if your home is somewhat modern contemporary its suitable to use the strips.
BTW my kitchen cabs are not suspended, they are full height + cement base at the bottom - so no cockroach/lizard issue.
I'll see if i wanna add the glass backing later on (don't relish the cleaning).... don't really mind the tiles uneveness, or i can shift the strips slightly forward so its not too bad.
Or just do the lower ones, coz i wanted extra illumination that's why i wanted the upper ones as well...once the main ceiling light switched on it goes away.
LED only, T5 high-output (39W) not switched on at the end with all the appliances
LED and T5 HO
Closeup
Living room BAY with sette, light it up at the base as a cove
Can try the magenta-violet strips which are very nice (not the pink colour or the ultraviolet strips which are eye damaging), or RGB which is controllable with various colours and a cold white colour but a bit "dirty looking which is not the same as cold-white or warm-white"....and still cannot get the magenta-violet colour. So you need to see what are you after for the various applications.
Others
* behind your LCD / Plasma, whole vertical cove in rectangular shape
* below your MBR bedframe, allow at least 2 inches height if possible.
* beneathe your dining table, study table
* If possible to hide, along the width of your window grilles...the CES ones, stick it below so that it'd shine down
* curtain pelmet - the curtain waves would create a nice effect, choose your curtains with a metallic surface and it would be really nice
Then play some good trance music from Carl Cox with a good fidelity 2.1 system (Global Underground is nice), and chill.....
The good thing is that if you apply incorrectly you can take it out and use for other areas. But you can buy a short test trip to try out first.
Careful with use of the RGB, the magenta-violet is ok but the RGB can easily turn your space into a Beng-sphere.
Apply tastefully.
OK
[/img]http://www.webamuse.co.jp/r35gt-r/img/wallpaper/wp_r35_phantom_04.jpg[/img]
Not OK
[/img]http://www.mike.vcn.com/tmp/ricer_civic_2.jpg[/img] |
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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actually the pix are quite a fair bit overexposed (due to the camera's inability to capture the brightest parts + the darkest part as the ranges are too far apart for the cam to handle). In real life you can see the "dots" for the top undercab lighting. Now it seems "seamless".
For the bottom its not as bad since its 100% reflected light and the tiles are non-glossy type. You can have an idea of it from my living room bay sette pic, in which you can see a bit of the light dots.
I finally got myself some RGB strips, and I can safely recommend to anyone here. Its quite fun, I think a fair number of people generally would be happy with the following colours to be used in *REAL LIFE*, as in you'd be tempted to switch on for mood lighting occassional, not those "switch on once when new and never switch on again" aka new toilet.
1. Orange
2. Blue (not so sure about this but I think "ok can lah")
3. Yellow (not so sure about this too)
4 Pink and its variants
5. There is a light purplish violet, if its more saturated then that'd be good (but dangerously close to ultraviolet, not sure if its good for the eyes)
Cannot make it colours
1. Green
2. light green
3. light blue
You'd need to balance out with the downlights, else in the long run the shorter wavelengths of the blue light components in the mix would ruin your eyes. Once you balance with normal lights, your iris becomes smaller and you get less of the blue component. Keyword - balance.
Its like COLD WHITE lights, use a DVD / CD as a diffraction device, lots of blue in the spectral distribution. For colours like orange, no issue.
The smooth fades of all the colours / blinking effects, i think can forget about it unless you are celebrating your son/daughter's 21st bday or New Year celebration. Or maybe have a kinky night on the bed perhaps..... (i'll prob get a headache first!)
I am so sorry guys, really my house is 60% practicality and 40% design, I also go more towards value for money.
There are some nice parts like the acrylic cabs, lightings I'd say I put quite a bit of thought into it besides the strips and some stuff are a bit different from the rest, but that's about it. My lightings did not go over 8k with LED strips incld, so not even close to the design / luxurious league. So nothing much to show lah, xianwei can attest to that.
But just some pictures.
Choose bt 5mm side firing, 8mm 1210 LEDs, 12mm 5050 LEDs. RGB is only available in 5050 factor (1210 also got, but really really expensive)
Choose between the normal notebook type of adaptor as power supply (terminate the LED strips with a plug), or the exposed type SMPS (screw on, multiple wires ok).
Top is my single colour magenta violet which I like most. Below is the RGB showing orange colour
There is one thing I need to tell you is that the RGB when in colour mode flickers a bit due to the RGB controller controlling. This gets extremely evident as you dim the light (the controller allows that). Even in full intensity in all the colour mode the light flickers a wee bit. If you balance with normal downlights, spotlights, its ok.
The white colour from the RGB is also a dirty very slight bluish-pinkish kinda light, which has a pretty low CRI, so it renders your sofa, flowers, feature wall etc in a funny way that is not true to the colour and not exactly nice. If you dim it, the flicker is very evident as well.
The RGB has 1 colour mode which gets pretty close to my magenta-violet mono-colour strip, but I think the RGB is slightly more pinkish. But pretty close, I think most would be happy with the RGB.
BTW, pls do not get the silicone waterproofed version, the colours get lighter and not as "solid". In photographic-speak its not as saturated. Don't know why.
Can get from GL Hub, Sim Lim Tower B1. They can give you the lowest price for the RGB controllers, most importantly customise something for you to your delight / mix and match, give advice etc.... This is important if not purchase salah not good lah. LED strips pricings in bulk are around the same as others.
If you cannot find the power supply you want, just walk over to Multilink, they have lots of them there. They have some pretty small form factor ones but still output a bunch of current (Amperes). Important if you are squeezing into a cove, its esp impt to me coz I am squeezing in an electronic IC switch, power supply and 2 runs of T5 tubes.
I found the best results for application in the light cove is to stick it as low as possible without blockage by other stuff (like T5) on the vertical wall of the cove. I tried putting it on the "ground" firing up, not as nice.
Coz remember, T5 is somewhat 360 deg, LED is only 120 deg. |
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 5:31 pm Post subject: |
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My electrician just dropped by to install 2 Electronic ICs (450W per line max) last night for the strips to be installed for the ceiling coves, poked 2 lobang as I used/share the switch for the vertical wall coves using T5.
Damage $80 incld IC hardware - night installation so as to suit my schedule as I wanna supervise
You can use RF A/B/C/D switches so you can control T5 and your strips, but I already have 1 RF switch remote (for a hard to reach light switch) so did not opt for that as its not too difficult to use. Too many remotes confusing lah. |
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 9:11 am Post subject: |
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I have put up all my LEDs liao. I'll see if i wanna do up my bed frame side/bottom part as well to bounce the light off the wall/floor. (maybe not).
I have 3 coves with violet, 2 at the living rm and 1 in the MBR. I originally wanted to do just for the bedroom but found the effect nice so wanted to do up the living as well. They ran out of stocks as I wanted a lot (I needed 6m and 4m respectively for the 2 coves) so I purchased 6m with silicone protection (not the tube kind) and 4m without.
Apparently with violet and those blue/pink colours, the silicone would change the colour a bit and make it lose saturation and more "bluish", the effect is v slight. So right now my living rm has 2 very slightly diff colours of magenta-violet. I have tried playing with the voltage output to the LEDs but not much use.
So bo bian, my MBR is a 5m cove with no silicone, need to take that LED strip out to exchange with one of the living rm one so as to make it standardised. MBR cove is standalone by itself, so use the LED strip with silicone no issue w slightly different colour vs living rm.
Since its 6m exchange with 5m, i'd also have to buy another meter.
Probably restick it up with UHU glue at certain lengths to assist the double-sided tape, the strips can be taken out and it still remain sticky w the double-sided tape that came with it, just maybe lose 50% only.
Parts of my kitchen 5050 strip came off, or rather the side is peeling off at about maybe 10 spots for 2m. This is exposed as its for under top kitchen cab shining down, a bit of super glue fixed it and its not peeling.
All my warm white strips are for illumination and not in proper light coves, so I opted for the LED strips with silicone for protection against water (eg mopping the floor/cleaning). Just make it a point to note that silicone shifts the colour a wee bit, so don't mix silicone strips with non-silicone ones.
Juz some tips.  |
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Armadillo 45th Storey

Joined: 15 Aug 2005 Posts: 2353 :
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Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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Wow nice LED light
Any idea roughly how much for 1 roll + the controller/adapter? _________________ ***People only failed when they give up***
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 12:42 pm Post subject: |
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The colours depicted here are only like 90% representative of reality, due to the sensor's inability to capture accurately the shorter wavelengths. (also depends on your LCD as well, all consumer grade TN LCD panels including LED panels difficult to render the whole colour depth)
Orange RGB
White RGB (as you can see it is dirty kinda white, in actual life somewhat pinkish)
Pinkish magenta.
You can see the LEDs from the reflection off the tiles. I have a pelmet/cove at the back which houses 2 x T5s there, I can put it in to hide the LED "dots" if I wish, but I find the visible LED dots to be nicer.
Need to hide my wires a bit more (use super glue liao)
The 2 coves, one with silicone (waterproofed) and the other without. Need to change one out and exchange with my MBR liao.
I have set the WB to about 6000K, so the halogen looks more orangey than it shd be. If i set it lower the cove comes out blue. Sensor cannot capture correctly.

Last edited by 2100 on Fri May 14, 2010 2:03 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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| Armadillo wrote: | Wow nice LED light
Any idea roughly how much for 1 roll + the controller/adapter? |
For the single colour, warm white or cool white strips, you just need an adapter.
Spec it this way. Every meter of 1210 or 3528 is 0.4A per meter. 5 meters = 2A.
This is paper spec, in reality Geraldine of GL Hub measured lower. Get a 3A adapter, enough to last 5 years reliabliy. The LEDs are "forever". And if spoil due to whatever reason, only that particular LED would not light - I did try to pluck out a LED and that did not take out the whole strip.
Power supply (notebook type) - 2.5A $18
3.5A $30
6A $38
8A $60
Sweetspots are 6A for the longer strips, 2.5A for the short strips.
Try not to run 2 x 5m strips in series, coz there would be great voltage drop at the end. Adapter end is gunning out 12V, the other 5m end i measured 10.7V nia. Imagine if its 10m. If the V drops the intensity would be different. If you need a 15m strip, do 3x parallel, and do up the 2nd strip with a 6m wire lead, 3rd strip with 11m wire lead, take care to tell them to give enough thickness for the wire (no need to be too thick also lah)
5050 cool or warm white takes in about 1A max per meter (paper spec is 1.2A).
5050 RGB takes in about 0.6A for the white colour, about 1/2 of that for the other colours.
5050 RGB strip is $120 per 5m reel ($24 per meter). Shorter lengths Per meter is $30/m. See how she counts, if you get a 4.5m Geraldine of GL Hub may give it to you at 4.5 x $24. If you get 15m I am sure there would be lotsa discounts.
5050 cool white/warm white same price as RGB. A meter of 5050 cool/warm white is pretty bright, cool white 5050 1m can be equal to about 800-900 lumens conservatively rated, or ~ 15W worth of tornado twist CFL. If you get the waterproofed siliconed version, expect to cut about 15% intensity. So for $120 5m worth of 5050, expect it to be BRIGHT. On the net the paper specs are like 20% higher.
Cool or warm white, coloured strips 1210 or 3528 variants (no RGB), approx $17 per meter.
Same price goes for the 335 SMD side firing LED strips (5mm width ones).
All variants, add silicone for waterproofing, the price goes up by $1-2 per meter. Warning - adding silicone is good for places like cooking area, kitchen, applied areas near the floor where you mop regularly. Else it reduces intensity by about 15% and the colours get diluted somewhat, not saturated.
RGB Controller is for the RGB LEDs. Ranges from $25 to $40 over, depending on the type of programmed functions. The base model quite ok, can do. You can use this controller to dim, so I reckon if you connect to a warm or cool white LED also can dim as well.
Do note that dimming induces a slight flicker, it is definitely visible if you are using a v long length of strip as main illumination and are looking at it directly. For the RGB strip in all colour modes as well as in max intensity for colour, there is still a v slight flickering. Something like your old CRT monitors at 60Hz. If its dimmed a lot the flickering is very noticeable. |
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 1:15 pm Post subject: |
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Some impressions
As you can see from the pix, somehow the halogen chandeliers are just passable with the LEDs but don't really gel totally. (it looks better in real life though). For most people I guess its decently ok, but I expected more.
Also the feel of it in my MBR is better than living room. So it really depends on your decor.
My wife and I are of the opinion that fluorescent downlights do not work well with LED coves. Very ja pa lang look. I have tried out 3 types of tubes, 2700, 4000 and 6500K, all no gel.
My metal halides work well with the violet coves.
Kitchen cabs warm white and Bay sette are great, very nice looking and gels with the modern contemporary theme. As strips are "straight" and look somewhat modern, a clean modern contemporary theme works.
If you have a complicated wall paper, it might not work. My ID does not recommend those funny/complicated patterned wall papers or laminates.
Esp if you mix with RGB, it would be "over". Too much of a good thing = bad.
I tried out my 2700K T5 in the cove mixed together with the violet, it gives you quite a nice cosy feeling. When I switched on my 4100K T5 in the cove, its pretty ok. 2700K + 4100K, the violet LEDs get swamped, no see at all.
The RGB in white mode, ok for accent illumination but not main illumination. Got a slight dirty pinkish cast to it. The flashing make you go dizzy within 15 seconds / the smooth transitioning from one colour to the next makes you go dizzy within 15 mins. If you are doing a party then I guess ok lah.
Orange is pretty nice, pink looks good too. But other colours make you look like ghost house. Even with other main forms of illumination the colours do not gel with the lighting or decor.
Your mileage may vary, you may be the type who likes complication and lots of pattern stuff.  |
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Armadillo 45th Storey

Joined: 15 Aug 2005 Posts: 2353 :
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Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 2:09 pm Post subject: |
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Wow, very nice effect
Thanks for your detail explaination
I think will wait till my cove down, then change all to LED  _________________ ***People only failed when they give up***
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 2:09 pm Post subject: |
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Saggydog, I remember you asking abt my Bay sette, the laminates non wavy one. The top part is granite, forgot which variant but I paid $160/ft for it as I specially selected the slab (the depth of the granite is 680mm, more than the usual 600mm used in kitchens - that's a pretty big & deep sette you can actually sleep on it). My kitchen black galaxy $110 nia.
I wanted to use laminates first, but disallowed by ID as it would not gel.  |
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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| Armadillo wrote: | Wow, very nice effect
Thanks for your detail explaination
I think will wait till my cove down, then change all to LED  |
Cove must be careful leh.... seriously I expected more and nicer effect from the cove. I'd rate it 6/10. The sette 8/10.
For bedroom can use warm white 5050 instead of T5. I find T5 in MBR to be too bright, I have never used it before after installed. T5 not dimmable also, so.... Watch TV good dah.... 1m 5050 is 900 lumens, 1m T5 is about 2200 lumens.
I am sure you'd have downlights as well, so if want max brightness then switch on the downlights. |
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Fia 45th Storey


Joined: 08 Sep 2005 Posts: 2012 :
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Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 6:35 pm Post subject: |
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| wah... light show siah!! |
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 11:10 pm Post subject: |
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| Fia wrote: | | wah... light show siah!! |
Coz I am a bit music siow also. I used to be an audiophile.
But say for your home it'd be difficult to implement in. Only the warm white strips perhaps, just an example. |
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aDeqUatE 10th Storey

Joined: 06 Jun 2005 Posts: 120 :
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Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 11:33 pm Post subject: |
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| We should go visit you often to enjoy the light show and superb music listening experience. |
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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maxxum 40th Storey


Joined: 01 May 2005 Posts: 1611 :
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Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 8:15 am Post subject: |
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Very pretty indeed. 5 popcorns for U  _________________
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 10:15 am Post subject: |
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| maxxum wrote: | Very pretty indeed. 5 popcorns for U  |
Pretty expensive also leh.... I'd say passable but not totally worth it after the whole project has been completed now. Given a chance I'd use the $900 to get 7 additional metal halides (as a compliment to say 7 PLL downlights) and use as downlight/spotlight purpose, can get that "attas" feeling which AeriaLCandy is after. (serious)
7 of them, use 1 for main door corridor, 1 outside kitchen door, 1 rooms' corridor, 3 for MBR. If false ceiling space is a premium get those dual units as these are 360 deg aimable. Why metal halide spotlights?
Each unit of 20W metal halide can get land you about 60W's worth of PLL/CFL of light within the spotlighted area so that area's nice and bright, but does not spillover to areas like say LCD/bed/sofa in the MBR or living room, as what the term spotlight suggests. This creates a contrast of bright and dim. We guys usually like it nice and bright, but you can't use a lot of T5/PLL to whack as this lights up the whole place and overloads the eyes telling it "this area is too bright for night time". You can have several PLL/CFL downlights to complement if one wants more diffused light.
That is also why IDs use the brown or grey paints vs the ceilings and our floors, so that the walls "do not get too bright". This spotlighting helps as well.
There are LED spotlights but for the same price the light output is about 1/3 that of metal halide. But metal halide bulb change at 8000h, LED change at 50000h. |
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ArieLCandy 25th Storey


Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 492 :
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Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 11:01 pm Post subject: |
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wow interesting & very detailed thread on lights.
thanks 2100 for sharing.
somehow i got this feeling your home looks mysteriously nice looking  |
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 9:45 am Post subject: |
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| ArieLCandy wrote: |
somehow i got this feeling your home looks mysteriously nice looking  |
That's a nice unique way of putting it, mysteriously nice looking.
Some additional findings :
Another way is to switch it on even during day time. It makes a nice design feature, something like ceiling wall covering. It won't provide illumination or what but just a design feature. Like in the living room the magenta violet coves, that only cost you ~ 40 watts. Ok lah.... |
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maxxum 40th Storey


Joined: 01 May 2005 Posts: 1611 :
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 1:19 pm Post subject: |
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| 2100 wrote: | | maxxum wrote: | Very pretty indeed. 5 popcorns for U  |
Pretty expensive also leh.... I'd say passable but not totally worth it after the whole project has been completed now. Given a chance I'd use the $900 to get 7 additional metal halides (as a compliment to say 7 PLL downlights) and use as downlight/spotlight purpose, can get that "attas" feeling which AeriaLCandy is after. (serious)
7 of them, use 1 for main door corridor, 1 outside kitchen door, 1 rooms' corridor, 3 for MBR. If false ceiling space is a premium get those dual units as these are 360 deg aimable. Why metal halide spotlights?
Each unit of 20W metal halide can get land you about 60W's worth of PLL/CFL of light within the spotlighted area so that area's nice and bright, but does not spillover to areas like say LCD/bed/sofa in the MBR or living room, as what the term spotlight suggests. This creates a contrast of bright and dim. We guys usually like it nice and bright, but you can't use a lot of T5/PLL to whack as this lights up the whole place and overloads the eyes telling it "this area is too bright for night time". You can have several PLL/CFL downlights to complement if one wants more diffused light.
That is also why IDs use the brown or grey paints vs the ceilings and our floors, so that the walls "do not get too bright". This spotlighting helps as well.
There are LED spotlights but for the same price the light output is about 1/3 that of metal halide. But metal halide bulb change at 8000h, LED change at 50000h. |
Thanks for sharing pal
Personally I like it very much, will be really keen to get some help from you to install it when my T5 failed in 1-2yrs time. Heh... _________________
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Yurikaze 35th Storey


Joined: 10 Jan 2008 Posts: 1057 :
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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Time to party @ 2100's house liao.. It's Mambo Wambo time..  _________________
Beep Beep!!!!!
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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Yuki, heh...no mambo lah, too old for that. Just plain single colour cove.
Actually the colour tone matches with the 2700K T5, adds some reddish tone to the skin.
| maxxum wrote: | | , will be really keen to get some help from you to install it when my T5 failed in 1-2yrs time. Heh... |
No need what, just run parallel to the T5. Go buy a $25 RF controlled switch, the A B C D type. A run to T5, B run to LED power supply.
My under TV console cove is this RF type (main reason is coz no switch for that, so use RF remote lor). My 3 magenta-violet coves are using normal Electric IC type, the switch on and off and on and off. Coz scared remote spoilt or gone....
Cannot DIY just let electrician do it, do up 2 switches h/w incld only $80, you want my electrician's contact?
Like i said, violet mixes well with 2700K fluoro.... nice reddish hue to the skin, not too yellow. |
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Fia 45th Storey


Joined: 08 Sep 2005 Posts: 2012 :
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Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Yurikaze wrote: | Time to party @ 2100's house liao.. It's Mambo Wambo time..  |
It's Mambo Jambo.... Zouk 90s old skool Wednesday.....  |
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2100 40th Storey

Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1880 :
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Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 3:37 pm Post subject: |
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If you happen to drop by Somerset 313 area, just hop over to Singapore Power's NTUC Finest (ground floor accessible via Exeter Rd or Somerset Rd also can). They are using LED T8 tubes, LED strips as well as 7W LED spot lights. All 4000K colour temperature. Everything illuminating top down from the ceiling is LED!
Personally find the 4000K a bit pale in colour leh, when you put your hands/newspaper/magazine out to see. If you go over to the freezer compartment where they are using Osram 4000K T5s, different case. |
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Yurikaze 35th Storey


Joined: 10 Jan 2008 Posts: 1057 :
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Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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| Fia wrote: | | Yurikaze wrote: | Time to party @ 2100's house liao.. It's Mambo Wambo time..  |
It's Mambo Jambo.... Zouk 90s old skool Wednesday.....  |
Hehe fia jie, I added a twist to it ma.. Hehe.. u 2 old school for that la.. 2100's disco lighting suitable for it ma.. Use his sound sys to blast everything..  _________________
Beep Beep!!!!!
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