The Pinnacle@Duxton, Singapore

[Hika]

for s1 unit - hall - without dining hanging light (exclude walkway to room)

how many PLC/LED lights are needed?

[OJ]

[2100]

[Hika]

sibei chim let me go n digest

[gaz0307]

[2100]

[Armadillo]

Anyone consider LED lighting?
Seem quite a good saving for long run
http://www.eartheasy.com/live_led_bulbs_comparison.html#a
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***People only failed when they give up***

[2100]

[2100]

BTW, still feel that a couple of metal halide is better for Jewelry/Swarovski Crystals compared to many LEDs. The glitter effect is better....this is only accomplished with just a few point source from different directions. The fibre optic/metal halide lighting system employed in Swarovski shop demonstrates this very nicely.....not very bright, but the glitter is crazy.

Another simple experiment, walk into Prada in Ion, your diamond will glitter like crazy. No need very high light levels. The glitter is even better than exposing your diamond to the sun (single extremely powerful point source).

I have a couple of swarovski pieces to be displayed in my 3 display shelves in feature wall. But using MR16 LED, I hope the glitter would be decent.

[Armadillo]

Hi 2100,
thanks for the great info
You're really expert in electronic thingy
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***People only failed when they give up***

[2100]

[Hika]

Hi 2100

can we change the square yellow light in common and master toilet to led white light? what to modify?


can we modify the rectangle ceiling light 2 x 36w pll tube to led t5 tube?

scenario: 1x CFL 32w compare with 1 x PLL energy saving light 32w
are they consuming the same power or pll using less power thus saving electrical bill?

[2100]

[2100]

But I am more enthusiastic about those LED spotlights. They are good replacement for metal halides. The huge -ve for metal halides in home use is really the approx 30s start up time needed, during which the intensity and colour temp changes. Some home users will not accept this single huge -ve. For commercial, no issue since switch on one straight go.

Its pretty difficult to get 10W metal halide in the usual shops, lowest is 20W metal halide. This is too much for a display cabinet esp with say 500mm height and 1000mm length. 20W metal halide is about low $100.
You can get 2 spotlights with 3W ea LED (6 watts total) for about $120 for the 2 and get that spotlighting effect for your display articles, and not blind yourself with say a 20W metal halide. You also gain in coverage coz you are dealing with 2 spotlights (eg 45 deg beamwidth each, can cover 90 deg, 60 deg beamwidth cover 120 deg).

But as downlights, I'd prefer the look of conventional PLL downlights with a nice glass cover design (my downlights radiates from the side of the glass too, got pattern also). LED spotlights has that high tech look.
High powered LED as downlights (20W) are too expensive at the current moment, approx $200 each. You might as well get 20W metal halide if you need that spotlighting effect for more contrast in the house.

[2100]

For those who really does appreciate mood lighting (other than good old chandeliers), blue + 2700K (827 code) = pinkish violet.
Usage = in cove lights.

Use an IC switch.

The effect is super pretty! Just saw it for myself today. So my cove light now tri colour selectable liao.

[jordan]

Hi 2100,

You seem really knowledgeable in the electronics area - need your inputs.

I'm considering to get LED spotlights for my living room.

Questions:

1. How many will be enough? How much will it cost?
2. Will I be able to get the warm color temperature as the Halogens?
3. What about the throw angle - is it drastically different?
4. I read about Philips MASTER LEDlamps (Gen II) - it's dimmable. Any showrooms in Singapore carry them?

Thanks for your help!

[Yurikaze]

SO pro! Hard to digest... LoL, I doubt anyone if keep walking to look around lights will know as much as u..

I got 6 2 x 13W PLCs extra 2 2 x 13W for toilets, some T5s I think is 6 or 8 tubes. That's all leh.. I spent like $430 on it already lo.. Need buy somemore?

Haha, U like buy alot.. My cove how to do selectable colour?
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Beep Beep!!!!!

[2100]

What pro.... Also got a bit of mistake. I now actually regret buying quite a lot of the PL downlights. Only got them coz the tempered glass looked pretty. The side got radiate a bit of pattern one.

I should have gotten more metal halides and stuck with them as a large % of illumination, even though they are more like spotlights. (even with a wide 90 deg beam angle). Use a frosted cover if you don't like the glare.
Something like light cove, then supplemented by metal halides beside the cove at the false ceiling, not PL downlights.

What I found is that the CRI (Colour Rendering Index) really makes a difference in terms of "feel". The CRI of halogens is 100, that's literally perfect. The CRI of metal halides is near low 90s. CRI of a good Philips/Osram fluorescent is ~ 80, regardless of whether you are using 2700k (827), 3000K (830), 4000K (840), 6500K (865), or even if you manage to get hold of some uncommon ones like 835, 850. A bad Chinese daylight PL tube could be as bad as mid 60s to 70. Also, most fluorescents flicker a bit. If you are into photography, you would know about the -ve of fluorescent. Even if you get the colour temperature correct, the pictures from your digital cam still make skin tones look like ghost in many cases, it just looks wrong...just that its exaggerated in the camera.
The colour temperature (kelvins) is one thing, but the Spectral Distribution of the light is quite another. Take an extreme example, the LPS low pressure sodium vapor street lamps. CRI of 28, its yellow, but its not the same yellow as a candle or incandescent or halogen. Shessh....I am into photography as one of my incomes, was quite into aquariums last time, and yet I made this stupid mistake.

There are high colour rendering bulbs, but i have not found them in SG. Its definitely not mainstream.

The CRI does not matter in my current home, coz its just a plain jane home. When you take hours of effort together with your ID to spec everything down to the minor details like how the kitchen cabinet colour combi works, your sofa, rug, coffee table and feature wall colour combi, using Acrylic glossy finishing instead of glossy laminates for the kitchen cab doors, to how the gold flakes look in your Black Galaxy, it makes a small but appreciable difference.

But a big plus of PL downlights vs a bit ceiling pancake type or those big tempered glass ones is "distribution of lights". A big 3 x 36W can be really efficient and bright. It is however from 1 "point source" (its not point source as in a tiny filament, but just take it as it is), compared to say 4 x dual 13W downlights distributed around the room. Different feel.... Same goes for cove light, which is even more distribute. (but sucks a lot of efficiency due to the reflected light nature.

[2100]

I was scratching my head why the heck my svc yard 2700K Hitachi tube looks much nicer than my 4000K kitchen tube. Coz my PL downlights are Osram which are just outside, same 4000K (the made in China one Dulux D, not the Dulux T Plus which are made in Germany). My kitchen cabs look like dead fish in the water.

NB, though of it, took out the tubes, Chinese tubes. I bought the lights from Alexander Village.... Checked the boxes in the store room....yep confirmed.

Also, read last time (aquarium rearing time) that the Chinese branded tubes could be as "bad" as 50 lumens per watt even for the big tubes, which typically would be 70 lumens per watt for Panasonic/Philips/Osram.

[Yurikaze]

Cannot digest la.. Dunno anything bout lights.. Just change the bulbs can already?
_________________
Beep Beep!!!!!

[2100]

[2100]

[Yurikaze]

[2100]

Osram there are Made in China and Made in Germany, Philips got Made In Italy/Malaysia. And of coz there are the usual Chinese branded ones, or Indonesia as well.

[Yurikaze]